This article appeared in the American Airlines/American Eagle Magazine, April 1993.
“I tell you about Reparaz?” asked my seatmate, Zbigniew Bzdak.
“Yes,” I lied. You don’t encourage Big News when he’s in a mood to tell war stories. As the bus wheezed out of Lima I feigned sleep; when we pushed south into the coastal desert I pressed my face to the window. A toothless idiot shoveled sand off the road, into the wind, then raised his hands for bread. I pulled up my collar and hunched down in my seat.
This much I knew: Reparaz is the trickiest rapid in the deepest canyon on earth, the Colca…